We have been travelling to Thailand from the year 2011. Every year we have been wanting to see the elephants, but we have not found a suitable place to see these gentle giants as we do not want to support mistreating of the animals. We were afraid that the experience would be like every other animal experience before. The zoos or animal attractions we have been in have all been at least to some level a bad experience. Even the ones in western countries like France, United States and even Finland. With every park the immediate feeling when leaving the park has been a sad feeling, as we have felt bad for the animals in the park. Also the looming feeling that our money just went to support a place which is not treating the animals right.
Even the reviews in travelling advice sites (like Tripadvisor) don't always tell the truth, since the concept of "treating animals" varies really much depending on the person and culture. If you want to support the places that does good, you really need to do your research. Nevertheless, we feel that our standard for animal attractions are at a level where the animal comes always first and the money is not the main thing.
Before our last trip to Khao Lak, Thailand, we felt that we really would like to see the elephants, and went to a great deal of doing research and googling on elephant parks in Thailand. I started to find suitable places for our region, and it was not easy. There are too many parks that don't say anything about how they treat the animals. This should already raise a flag when thinking going to a such place. Of course in Thailand, the words usually don't matter that much either when talking about the business around the tourism. So you should think twice and do some research over the internet about a place you are planning to go to. The worse thing you can do is to choose the cheapest place blindly from some random office on the street or hotel based on a recommendation by a local.
For my search, I used a lot of reading and googling, but finally found a park that would suit our standards. I stumbled across a page which talked about the ethical elephant parks in Thailand and one of the parks were at decent distance from our hotel. The Phang Nga elephant park was on the list and we felt that it might be a place for us. For the reasons stated above, we still did not book, but waited when we were actually in Khao Lak.
We contacted the Phang Nga elephant park via email and it was very clear from the beginning that it was not the usual elephant parks. The answer was in really good English (something that is unusual for the Thai companies as English is not usually spoken or written) and it explained in detail much of the possibilities. We asked a few more detailing questions and ended up booking the half day experience with the park.
At the visiting day, the car was waiting for us on the hotel at the agreed time (the pickup is included in the price) and we left for the park. After a decent one hour drive from Khao Lak, we arrived to the park. We were greeted by Anna, a volunteer in the park and our guide to be, and walked up a hill to have a briefing about the day while we listened the elephants, or actually one certain elephant making noises.
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| Our guide, Anna. |
As we sat down, we saw the first elephant. The young elephant was running down the hill making noises, and heading straight to a place where there were bananas waiting. She stopped there and made a big statement that she would like to have bananas. This time the bananas were not for her and she left making noises with the handler behind.
This was the first indication that the park is really treating the animals like they should. There was not a point where there would be someone hitting or yelling to the animal when she decided to go ask for bananas. Actually we found out that the park fires anyone who hits the animals. The only person with the elephant was the mahout of the elephant. The mahout is a person who trains and works with the elephant. And don't think this as a eight to five kinda job. The mahout job is for life and you start early. The mahout sleeps when the elephant sleeps and he doesn't leave the elephant alone for long periods of time in this park. The elephant and the mahout grow together and learn to live together. So it is truly a job for a life. Later I would be happy to know, that she was going to be the elephant that I get to meet during the day.
We carried on with our refreshments and Anna started to brief us. She told that the elephant we saw, Tangthai, was the youngest of the elephants, if you did not count the six months old baby. She is a bit different from the others, as she liked to make sounds a lot as we would notice later, as Tangthai would be the elephant that I would be caring for during the day. After Anna told us about Tangthai it really made sense. Being six years old is like that. You like treats, and you like to explore the world around you. You are interested in different things. For Tangthai it was another try to get candy and explore the world.
We talked a lot about the elephants in overall. The differences between the different sub-species over the world, their habits, diets, how they are trained, is it ok to ride them, the biology of the elephants from the feet to the trunk. With the help of Anna we found out that the elephants have much better smell than the best bloodhounds in the world, not every sub-species have tusks, the elephants eat about 350kg of food per day, their feet are so sensitive that they can feel the herd making sounds through the ground from 20 kilometers away, and there are certain parts of the elephant that you can actually see how old the elephant is. There were so much information from Anna that I cannot possibly remember them all. In addition we talked about the day and what to do and what not to do.
While we waited for the elephants to be ready for us, we went to see the smallest addition to the 12 headed herd of elephants in the park. He was just six months old and "only" 150 kilograms. He was in own area with it's mother for the safety of both him and the tourists in the park. It is not a good combination to have 150 kilograms of happy elephant to run around freely in the park without totally controlling himself and having the visiting children to be at the same area and the same state of not in totally control of themselves.
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| The 150kg baby elephant with her mother. Just six months old. The elephants tend their young up to two years. |
We left the baby and the mother at peace and went to the first actual activity of the day, the elephant riding. At this point it is good to know that it really is OK to ride the elephants if you do it the correct way. The correct option is to ride the elephants bare neck, without any saddles or chairs. And the correct place to sit is not in the back, but near the ears. Also the use of chairs are ok if they are designed the correct way. The bad way is the way that the chair is directly against the spine of the elephant, and the correct way is when the weight rests equally on the sides of the elephant. Also the padding makes a big difference for the elephant.
If you are wondering about the weight of a human on top of the elephant you can think of this. If I, a 87kg weighted man, would take a small backpack weighting four kilos to my back, it would be 4,4% of my body weight. For a fully grown elephant the roughly 90 kilograms weighting human in similar way is roughly 2% of it's own body weight. Even for the six year old, the weight ratio is 3,6%. It is not too much, unless you do it all the time and in this park the elephants are limited to have the tourist on their back to maximum of 4 times a day for 15-20 minutes at a time.
| The correct chair design and enough padding between the chair and the elephant. |
Anyway, we did not use the chairs for riding, but we did ride them bare neck. Our lovely two elephants were Choosie and the young noisy Tangthai. I got the young and enthuastic six year old Tangthai, while my girlfriend rode the more gently lady, Choosie which is 40 years old. While riding, we got to notice that every elephant is indeed different. While Choosie was walking calmly up the hill, Tangthai was totally different thing. Being a child, she really liked to explore things. It was not a few times when the trunk of Tangthai was exploring the delicious bush beside the road up the hill, or leaving behind and going again in front of Choosie. And all this while making a deep sound and blowing her trunk once in a while.
| Tangthai leads, and Choosie calmly follows. |
After the ride, we got up the hill and it was time for a light snack for the elephants, a light snack of ~15 kilograms of bananas for each to be more precise. It was really funny to see the difference between the elephants once again. We both had a basket of bananas that we got to feed the elephants. While Choosie politely did eat everything Taina gave her, Tangthai was again from the different world. I fed Tangthai with bananas I got to my hand from the basket at random. Some of the bananas were ripe and some of them were raw. I did not think it would make a difference, but I was dead wrong. If I gave a yellow and good ripe banana to Tangthai, she eat with great appetite, but boy if the banana were green... The bananas that were only partly green were up to evaluation. Some were ok to eat, but some she threw away to the ground and wanted to have the yellow bananas. At some point the yellow bananas were running out from the basket and I was offering only green bananas, so the trunk went straight to the basket to search for the yellow ones bybassing the offered green bananas. I felt that I was the stupid tourist who did not know what was good and what was not. Well the bananas got eaten anyways, as Tangthai ate the green ones after the ripe bananas were gone. Tangthai also found the banana stash that the mahouts Ty and Lek had put aside for Choosie. Tangthai was more than happy to clear the stash from the bananas before heading back to the camp.
Tangthai eating (no sound).
After the snack time we headed down the path to the small pool in the camp. Tangthai were eager to go down again and Lek had to ask her to wait for Choosie, but in vain as Choosie chose to wait in the shade parts to cool off. This is also a thing in this park. The mahouts will ask or tell the elephant to do something, but it is always the elephants decision if anything is done. In this case Choosie decided to hang around in the shade once in a while and Taina waited on top of her. Choosie also did use the spit to cool herself down (this is what elephants do) to the amusement for Taina who was riding her and getting the spit-cooling also.
Eventually Choosie got down also and it was time for bathing. The half day experience included a bath time with the elephants in the pool, where the elephants would enjoy brushing and the cooling water. We entered the pool with the bigger bathers first and started to brush Tangthai and Choosie. It was really nice to see that both elephants really enjoyed the brushing. If you are familiar with dogs and cats, you know that when the animals really enjoys the scratching, they partly close their eyes. So did Tangthai and Choosie at times. It was not only the bathing, but the whole day. You really could tell from the elephants the really like being in the park. They seem really happy, which is the main thing.
| "Put the camera down and brush some more!" |
After the bathing, it was time to say goodbye for the elephants and head for the lunch (included in the price). Anna took us to a more quiet place on the premises where we enjoyed a Thai lunch. During the lunch we discussed about our great experiences in the park and the reasons why the park was founded. We also got to meet the owners of the park, the two brothers, who founded the park few years back. After the lunch we paid the tour and left the park with goodbyes and Facebook exchange with Anna.
During the car ride back to our hotel I could not help to think about the experience we had and the good feeling we got. It was totally different to the previous experiences we have had in animal parks. By visiting the park, we did not only help these elephants in the park, we helped the brothers which have made a good effort and are aiming high in Thailand to change the elephant business.
The brothers make a good combination of business knowledge and elephant knowledge. Jake has been in London for 12 years and handles the business side and communication while his brother works with the elephants, as he has done from the age of six. The fundamentals in the park are in the ethical treatment of the animals which shows from the brothers. They are really committed on saving the elephants and working towards buying the elephants in the park for themselves.
The park started from the point of three elephants that they did want to save when their family started to have problems keeping them. They set up the park and started to expand the park by renting animals from different owners. Majority of the animals are rented from other owners. The perspective of the goodness the brothers are doing comes to play when the history of the elephants in the park are known. The brothers are simply saving the elephants for paying more to the owners to have the elephants in the park than sent to work in logging camps. At this point it is good to understand that the logging industry with elephants is illegal in Thailand, but with certain amount of money and the correct corrupt policeman it is easy to turn away from that kind of action.
So yes. The elephants are really saved from the horrifying places that they would otherwise be in. And this is the reason you really should go to these ethical parks who fights for the rights of these majestic animals. Without these parks, the elephant business will never change. And without going to these parks, there will be no money to save the 80% of the elephant population in Thailand which is domesticated. But saving the elephants is a costly thing to do. Only the feeding costs are big for the Thai people as an elephant eats 350kg of food every day.
One could argue that no elephants should be kept in the tourism business, but then again there is the ethical dilemma. 80% of the current 5000 elephant population in Thailand are domesticated animals. This means that they are born and raised in captivity and they are dependant on the humans that raised them. And the fact is that without parks like this, the elephants would be in the worse parks and logging industry or dying because the owner cannot feed it. If the option from a park where the animal is happy is death, beating and using, or overworking in logging camps, it is really a no-brainer.
One could also make an argument that it is not ethical to keep elephants in captivity at all. Well that is an question that relates to every animal. Is it ethical to keep dogs and cats? Fishes? Horses? And to this question there are as many answers as there are persons who answer. The fact anyways is that the elephant has been part of the Thai culture for hundreds of years, and still is. Until the tradition for using elephants, like we western people used to use horses, is fading I would say that there is nothing to be done to that but try to teach the Thai people that the tourists appreciate and pays even more for just seeing the elephants happy in a park than what they would get for renting them for logging or exploiting tourism business. Maybe that is the way to the point that elephants gets a better life in Thailand.
The brothers in Phang Nga elephant park is on this way and they have set the goal to buy every elephant in the park. But this is not cheap, as the elephant can cost up to 50 000 euros, which is an amount that corresponds to a build costs of a rather big house in Thailand. This is one of the reasons why the park fee is more in ethical parks than in the ones that only exploit the elephants for income to the owners. But as almost everyone visiting the elephant parks in Thailand are wealthy western people, it is fair to ask: Is it too much to pay a bit more for a ethical experience with nicer experience? The answer is obvious.
So while visiting Thailand, please visit the elephants, but choose the park wisely, because ethical elephant park equals happy elephants and customers!
| Tangthai playing with the mahout Ty. |
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